iluvfreetools
Site & safety46 of 46

Risk assessments, method statements, SWMS and job hazard analyses, for the UK, US, Australia and Canada. Finished documents, no empty boxes left for you.

All 46 ›
Structure & materials35 of 35

Steel, timber, concrete, brickwork, boards, groundworks and roofs. Section data, indicative sizing, quantities and the reference tables you normally go hunting for.

All 35 ›
Home & property32 of 32

See what it would look like before you commit, then work out what it takes. Upload a photo of your own wall, drive or house and try things on it.

All 32 ›
Invoices & docs20 of 20

Invoices, quotes, receipts and the rest of the paperwork, generated properly. No account, no watermark, and Download is the only button.

All 20 ›
Money & tax39 of 39

Wages, mortgages, tax and the everyday sums. What you actually take home, what it actually costs, and what you actually owe.

All 39 ›
People & hours46 of 46

Rotas, rosters and schedules, holiday and PTO, timesheets and staff paperwork. The admin that eats a Sunday evening, done in ten minutes.

All 46 ›
Business & marketing50 of 50

Starting up, getting found and keeping the admin straight. Everything downloadable, nothing paywalled at the last step.

All 50 ›
PDF & documents27 of 27

Merge, split, crop, sign, number and compress. Everything runs in your browser, so the contract you open here never reaches a server.

All 27 ›
Image tools24 of 24

Convert, resize, compress, crop and adjust. All of it on your own machine, with no upload, no account and no watermark on anything.

All 24 ›
Text & dates20 of 20

Word counts, case, days between dates, working days and ages. The ten-second look-ups, with no account and nothing stored.

All 20 ›
Random & party27 of 27

Secret Santa, draws, brackets, sweepstakes, printables and party quantities. The bit that is just for fun, done properly.

All 27 ›
Training & tests21 of 21

Practice tests for the cards and licences that decide whether you can work. Every answer cites the guidance it came from, not a forum.

All 21 ›

Gates on your drive

Free. No account, no email, nothing uploaded.

vertical gate preview, 1200mm high
99mm Clear gap between bars
2980mm Leaf width
3660mm Whole entrance

A 100mm sphere will not pass between the bars, which is what Approved Document K asks for on a guard. Drawn to the sizes you typed, so it is a check on your figures and not a specification.

Drop a photo of your wall or drive Or take one on your phone. It stays on your device, nothing is uploaded.
Style
You can see through it. Suits a drive you want to keep open.
Material
A flat, even finish. What almost all railings and gates actually are.
0 for none. They sit outside the opening, so the whole entrance gets wider.
Shut. Drag it to open the leaves.
Real figures, so you can see what it does before typing your own.

Worked out on this device, by this page. Nothing you typed was sent anywhere or stored, and closing the tab loses it.

Next in the same job

Your drive, at your opening width

Photograph the opening, drop it in, and try gates on it. Single or a pair, four styles, any colour, dragged and scaled until it looks like the thing you are picturing.

Gate showrooms and websites show you a gate on a gravel drive between two stone piers in Cotswold sunshine. Useful for seeing the ironwork, useless for deciding whether it suits a 1930s semi with a dropped kerb and a wheelie bin. That decision needs your photo.

One leaf or two, and why it is nearly always two

A single leaf across a 3m opening is a bad gate, and the reason is leverage rather than looks.

All the weight hangs off one post, 3m from where it acts, so the hinge post has to be substantial and properly set. It also swings through a 3m arc, which on most drives means it hits a car, a wall or a bin. Two leaves halve the weight on each post and halve the arc. A single leaf is right for a pedestrian gate up to about 1.2m and awkward beyond it.

Tick the pair option and the tool splits the opening into two leaves and leaves the meeting gap between them.

The clearances, which is where drawings usually lie

A gate is always narrower than its opening, and this tool draws that in rather than pretending otherwise.

  • About 10mm at each hinge. Without it the leaf binds on the post as soon as anything moves or swells.
  • About 20mm where a pair meets. Two leaves that touch in the middle will catch on each other on the first cold morning.
  • Clearance underneath. Drives fall away for drainage, so a gate that clears the ground at the hinge can foul it at the far end. Worth measuring at both ends before ordering anything.

So a 3,000mm opening gives a pair of leaves at roughly 1,485mm each, not 1,500. That 15mm is the difference between a gate that shuts and a gate that gets planed on site.

See through it or not

Bars keep the frontage open and make a small drive look bigger. Close boarding gives you privacy and catches the wind.

The wind matters more than people expect. A solid pair of gates 3m wide and 1.5m tall is four and a half square metres of sail, and everything it catches goes into the hinges, the posts and the concrete around them. It is the commonest reason a set of gates ends up leaning. If the drive is exposed, bars or a boarded gate with a gap at the top will outlast a solid one.

Height, and the bit by the road

Gates adjoining a highway are restricted in height under permitted development, and the limit is lower than most people assume.

It is also the one part of this that is worth a phone call rather than a search, because conservation areas, listed buildings and any Article 4 direction change the answer, and so does whether the gate opens outwards over a footpath. None of that is a reason not to try the look first, which is what this tool is for.

What goes in the ground is not on this page

What the posts need to be, or what goes in the ground. Both depend on the leaf weight, the exposure and what you are digging into.

Automation changes it again: a motor puts continuous load into a post that a hand-swung gate never does, and it brings safety requirements with it, including force limits and edge protection. That is a conversation with an installer, not a number this tool can give you.

Common questions

Is my photo uploaded anywhere?

No. The photograph is drawn on inside your browser and the picture you download is assembled on your own device. It matters more here than on most of these tools, because a picture of your gateway shows the approach to the house, what is parked behind it and how it is secured. None of that leaves the machine, and there is no account to make.

Should I have one gate or a pair?

A pair, on almost any drive. A single leaf across a 3m opening is heavy, needs a big hinge post, and swings through a 3m arc. Two leaves halve both the weight and the arc. A single leaf only really suits an opening under about 1.2m.

How much gap does a gate need?

About 10mm at each hinge and 20mm where a pair meets, and clearance underneath for a drive that is not level. This tool draws that clearance in, so the leaves it shows are narrower than the opening. A gate drawn to exactly fill its opening is the gate that does not shut.

What does a fabricator need from me to quote?

The clear opening between the posts rather than the width of the drive, the height you want, whether the posts already exist and what they are, and how much the ground falls across the opening. Photographs of both piers and of the ground between them answer most of the rest. Guessing the opening is the single most common reason a quote changes after the site visit.

Does the fall of the ground matter?

A great deal, which is the thing drawings leave out. A gate swinging up a slope grounds on the high side long before it is fully open, so the ground clearance has to be set for the highest point of the sweep rather than for where the gate sits closed. That is why a rising hinge, a sloped bottom rail or a change to sliding gets decided at survey rather than afterwards. On a steep drive the honest answer is often a sliding gate.

If I might automate it later, what has to be decided now?

The posts and the ducting. Automation loads a post far harder than a hand-operated gate does, so the post size and its foundation are set by the motor you might fit rather than by the gate, and retrofitting a bigger post means digging up the pier. Lay a duct under the drive at the same time, because pulling power and a safety edge cable across a finished driveway later is the expensive part. Say at the quote stage that automation is possible even if you are not doing it.

Do I need planning permission for gates?

Usually not, but there are limits worth checking: gates next to a highway are restricted in height, and listed buildings and conservation areas have their own rules. Your council is the answer, and it is a five minute phone call rather than a guess.